Island peak

This is most popular trekking peak in Nepal. From Dingbuche the mountain is seen as an island in a sea of ice. The summit is interesting and attractive with a highly glaciated west face rising from the Lhotse Glacier. The mountain itself is the extension of the Island Peak South Ridge of Lhotse Shar, separated by a small col. The ridge rising to the south from this point leads to the summit of Island Peak. The extension of this ridge descending south-west is the part of the normal route of ascent and leads to the South Summit.

Imja Tse not only provides an enjoyable climb but also provides some of the most spectacular scenery of Himalayas in the Khumbu region. Seen from the summit the giant mountains, Nuptse (7,879m), Lhotse (8,501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8,410m) and Lhotse Shar (8,383m) make a semi circle in the north. The views of Makalu (8475m) in the east, Baruntse and Amadablam in the south add more charm for climbing Island Peak.

South East Flank & South-West Ridge: The Island Peak base camp is set at Pareshaya Gyab (5,150m), between Imja Tse and the lateral moraine of the Imja Glacier. It should not be forgotten that the place is at high risk of avalanche in the event of heavy snow fall. From the base camp, a well acclimatized party in good conditions can make the summit and return to the base camp in a day. However, most of the climbers prefer establishing a High-Camp which helps a safe ascent. From the base camp the route skirts south east around the base of Imja Tse and climbs steep grassy slopes and small rocky steps. We scramble up an open gully which leads between two ridges to the site of high camp on the left-hand ridge below and to the right of a small hanging glacier (5,280m).
Island peak

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Himalayan Smile

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